Skip to main content

The Rebels - Part I

The fairgrounds in the small town of Canudos, some 20 kilometers away from the 19th century historical settlement, which was rebuilt in the 1950s. The historical settlement was completely covered by water thanks to the Cocorobó Dam. Only during dry seasons can the church tower be seen sticking out of the water. Canudos, Bahia

The region around Canudos, Monte Santos and Euclides da Cunha in the center of the federal state of Bahia has been the starting point for social revolutionary movements in Brazil for over 100 years. A strong awareness regarding the unfair distribution of agriculturally usable land developed in this part of the sertão after the uprising in 1897. The situation last escalated in the 20th century: the 1980s – major landowners in the region began to illegally fence in areas which belonged to the rural communities and small farmers. They were taking advantage of the fact that a lot of the legal owners did not have the proper land registration for their fields and pastures. Once fenced in, the property rights were illegally rewritten with the help of corrupt officials. This practice quickly produced protests by the small farmers, who removed the fences. The major landowners then employed armed gangs in order to prevent the farmers from doing this.

This revolt, which gained national attention, was led by a padre from the small town of Monte Santo. As a priest in one of Brazil’s most important pilgrim sites – the Capela da Serra de Monte Santo, situated at the highest point of the Serra de Piquaraça – he had the power to call attention to illegal practices. Together with the Federação dos Trabalhadores na Agricultura he organized protest marches and started legal proceedings. And because of his commitment, Enoque José de Oliveira was excommunicated. This section of his life was presented in the mini-series “O Pagador de Promessas” on Brazil’s most popular TV channel “Globo”, a legend in the sertão of Bahia. In this screen adaptation, he fights as Padre Elói together with Zé do Burro against major landowner Tião Gadelha.

Today, Enoque lives only a few kilometers away from his former church in Euclides da Cunha. The regional hub has 60,000 inhabitants and is named after the creator of the book “Os Sertões”. It is situated on both sides along the BR 116 and joins the two metropolises Salvador in the south and Fortaleza in the north. Two oversized four-story hotels and several major service stations characterize the skyline. The ex-priest sits in an old wooden chair in the Casa de Canudos, which he himself founded. 

The house also serves as an archive for the history of the farmers’ uprising of Canudos, as an office for the People’s Movement of Canudos and as Enoque’s living quarters, run by his housekeeper Damina (35). Damina limps in – her leg supported by a metal brace – with a tablet and serves coffee. Enoque talks continuously. The coffee in his hand grows cold while he describes the successes of his movement, emphasizes the importance of Canudos as a symbol for a more just and charitable world, and complains about his lack of financial resources. Since his excommunication, his income consists of a small salary from the agricultural workers’ union in Monte Santo. Even today he has close contact to his comrades in arms from the 1980s. They meet regularly at farms interspersed throughout the hinterland.

The “Festa de Santo Antônio de Canudos” takes place every year in June for three days. The date is reminiscent of the beginning of the fourth military expedition against Antônio Conselheiro supporters in June 1897, which ended with the slaughter of about 25,000 people in October 1897. Today, the Bahians dance to forró and samba until six in the morning. Canudos, Bahia
Two women wait for a taxi on Sunday morning in front of the closed stalls for the celebration in honor of Santo Antônio de Canudos. In Bahia, Saint Anthony – with his with long black hair and beard –bears a resemblance to the only known photo of Antônio Conselheiro, which Flávio de Barros took of his corpse. Canudos, Bahia
The Paroquia Sagrado Coração de Jesus – it was here that Padre Enoque José de Oliveira began a social movement for land reform in 1981. In the 1980s, the "New Movement of Canudos" fought for the land rights of many communities and farmers. Monte Santo, Bahia
As a proponent of Latin-American liberation theology in the region of Monte Santo, Enoque José de Oliveira (68) founded the Euclides da Cunha and Canudos grass-roots communities which actively support land reform and social justice. A priest of the Catholic Church, he was excommunicated in 1989. Since then he has been supported financially by the agricultural workers’ union. Euclides da Cunha, Bahia
According to the legend, Santo Antônio de Mestre was named after a teacher that fell in love with a slave and hid together with her in nearby caves. Santo Antônio de Mestre, Monte Santo, Bahia
In the late afternoon, women come to the bar on the village square – which is also the local supermarket as well. The houses of the small community are widely scattered throughout the landscape. There are two bars there, and the former school is now the community center. Santo Antônio de Mestre, Monte Santo, Bahia
Estevan’s neighbor wearing the typical leather hat of the sertão vaqueiro (cowboy). Santo Antônio de Mestre, Monte Santo, Bahia
Since not all houses have running water, the public well is regularly visited by the girls and young women of the village to get water for the houses. Santo Antônio de Mestre, Monte Santo, Bahia
Luis Felipe Guimarães dos Santos (14) waits at the bus stop for the school bus which will take him to his afternoon lesson in Praça. Santo Antônio de Mestre, Monte Santo, Bahia
Estevan Arves dos Santos (49, right) and Flavio da Silva (68) stand on Flavio’s field, which has just been planted. He planted beans this year and hopes that the rain will soon come. Both complain that the local government has not yet built any new water retention basins. Santo Antônio de Mestre, Monte Santo, Bahia
José Raimundo da Silva (65) has 11 children – four sons and seven daughters. All of his daughters (and their children) live at home. The parents’ small farmworker pension feeds the whole family. José does not know the exact number of grandchildren he has. In his family, it is tradition that every generation has seven to ten children. Santo Antônio de Mestre, Monte Santo, Bahia
Rosa Ribeiro Guimarães (56), former village teacher, decorates the repurposed school for the Santo Antônio Festival. The school was abandoned years ago as there were not enough students and so Rosa had to go into early retirement. Santo Antônio de Mestre, Monte Santo, Bahia

This a chapter of a book! 
So please go to the beginning of the page to select the next chapter.